黎明前的北京

师哈哈达人

前后加起来，我在北京已经住了四十多年，算是一个老北京了。②北京的名胜古迹，北京的妙处，③我应该说是了解的；其他老北京当然也了解，但是有一点，我相信绝大多数的老北京并不了解，④这就是黎明时分以前的北京。
多少年来，我养成了一个习惯：每天早晨四点在黎明以前起床工作。我不出去跑步或散步，而是一下床就干活儿，因此我对黎明前的北京的了解是在屋子里感觉到的。我从前在什么报上读过一篇文章，⑤讲黎明时分天安门广场上的清洁工人。那情景必然是非常动人的，可惜我从未能见到，只是心向往之而已。
四十年前，我住在城里在明朝曾经是特务机关的东厂里面。几座深深的大院子，在最里面三个院子里只住着我一个人，朋友们都说这地方阴森可怕，晚上很少有人敢来找我，我则恰然自得。⑥每当夏夜，我起床以后，立刻就闻到院于里那些高大的马缨花树散发出来的阵阵幽香，这些香气破窗而入，我于此时神清气爽，乐不可支，连手中那一支笨拙的笔也仿佛生了花。
几年以后，我搬到西郊来往，照例四点起床，坐在窗前工作。白天透过窗子能够看到北京展览馆那金光闪闪的高塔的尖顶，此时当然看不到了。⑦但是，我知道，即使我看不见它，它仍然在那里挺然耸人天空，仿佛想带给人以希望，以上进的劲头。我仍然是乐不可支，心也仿佛飞上了高空。
过了十年，我又搬了家。这新居既没有马缨花，也看不到金色的塔顶，但是门前却有一片清碧的荷塘。刚搬来的几年，池塘里还有荷花。夏天早晨四点已经算是黎明时分。在薄暗中透过窗子可以看到接大莲叶，而荷花的香气也幽然袭来，⑧我顾而乐之，大有超出马缨花和金色塔顶之上的意味了。
难道我欣赏黎明前的北京仅仅由于上述的原因吗？不是的。三十几年以来，我成了一个“开会迷”。⑨说老实话，积三十年之经验，我真有点怕开会了，在白天，一整天说不定什么时候就会接到开会的通知，说一句过火的话，我简直是提心吊胆，心里不得安宁。即使不开会，这种惴惴不安的心情总摆脱不掉。只有在黎明以前，根据我的经验，没有哪里会来找你开会的。⑩因此，我起床什桌子旁边一坐，仿佛有什么近似条件反射的东西立刻就起了作用，我心里安安静静，一下子进入角色，拿起笔来，“文思”⑾（如果也算是文思的话）如，泉水喷涌，记忆力也像刚磨过的刀于，锐不可当。此时，我真是乐不可支，如果给我机会的话，我简直想手舞足蹈了。
因此，我爱北京，特别爱黎明前的北京。
Predawn Beijing
Ji Xianlin
Translated by Zhang Peiji
I've been in Beijing altogether for over 40 years. So I can well call myself a long-timer of Beijing. Like all other long-timers of the city, I'm supposed to be very familiar with its scenic spots and historical sites, nay, its superb attractions. But I believe there is one thing lying unknown to most of the long-time residents - the predawn hours of Beijing.
For many years, I have been in the habit of get- ting up before daybreak to start work at four. Instead of going out for a jog or walk, I' 11 set about my work as soon as I'm out of bed. As a result, it is from inside my study that I've got the feel of predawn Beijing. Years ago, I hit upon a newspaper article about street cleaners in Tian'anmen Square at daybreak. It must have been a very moving scene, but what a pity I haven' t seen it with my own eyes. I can only picture it in my mind longingly.
Forty years ago, I lived downtown in Dongchang, a compound which had housed the secret service of the Ming Dynasty. There were inside it several deep spacious courtyards one leading into another. I was the sole dweller of the three innermost courtyards. My friends, calling this place too ghastly, seldom dared to come to see me in the evening whereas I myself found it quite agreeable. In summer, the moment I got out of bed before daybreak, I would smell the delicate fragrance of the giant silk trees coming from outside my window. Thereupon, I would feel refreshed and joyful, and the clumsy pen in my hand would seem to have become as agile as it could.共2页，当前第1页12